Dear wine lover, here are links to some of the articles that were published on this week.

View this email in your browser  News 25 Aug 2017

Dear wine lover

This week I made my way back from the sleepy Languedoc to the fleshpots of London via leafy Wiesbaden where Michael Schmidt and I shared the 'task' of tasting the 444 about-to-be-released Grosse Gewächse. In fact this is a dream tasting, beautifully organised, thanks to the team of servers who so efficiently bring and pour for you the flights of wines you request. The only difficulty was deciding who was going to taste what. This year I had the pleasure of tasting the Spätburgunders (mainly 2015s and a few 2014s; I will be reporting on them soon) plus Rieslings (mainly 2016) from the Mosel, Nahe, Franken, Mittelrhein, Württemberg and Baden. The Masters of Wine are organising a tasting of 60 2016 GG Rieslings in London on Wednesday 6 September. Details of how to buy a ticket are here.

On the site, I published two articles on the extent to which the cork industry has at long last woken up and is doing its best to offer TCA-free stoppers. I also wrote an assessment of the latest finds of one of the UK's most experienced wine treasure hunters and added my tasting notes on some seriously fine Italian wines that I managed to wrest from Walter's very capable grasp. We also published the shortlists in this year's Australian Women in Wine Awards, one of which we are sponsoring, and my wine of the week today is a top-quality Chardonnay from a particularly cool corner of South Africa.

Julia gave us the first part of a report on her visit to northern Greece earlier this summer, and yesterday we republished her 2009 account of an encounter with the late and much missed Hatzidikis on Santorini.

Gary Werner presented some rather alarming research into the shipping temperatures of bulk wine, and Chris Boiling continued his diary as a wannabe winemaker in Slovenia. Nick reviewed a chefs' chef's restaurant in Paris.

Today Tam treats us to the story of Vin Cognito, a newish online retailer that has tickled her fancy, while on Monday Richard reminded us of one of the great wine bargains, a top-quality classic from Rioja released only when it is judged ready to drink. Would that other producers were as patient.

Yours impatient for the start of the London tasting season proper, though I did get home to find the unsolicited samples pictured above waiting for me. Just the 35. Piece of cake.


​Lismore Chardonnay 2014 Greyton (Wines of the week)

Aug 25, 2017 09:00 am | Jancis Robinson

From 215 rand, £18.40, 29.90 Swiss francs, $33.93, €28.75 Find this wine Okay, who knows where Greyton is? I’m rather inclined not to disclose its location until the very end of this article because in my experience so many wine drinkers, especially in the US, are prejudiced against South African wines even though they offer some of the finest…

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Taking cognisance of Vin Cognito (Tasting articles)

Aug 25, 2017 09:00 am | Tamlyn Currin

If I told you a story about Jancis, an alleyway, a hatchet, a hooded stranger, and garlic on a foul dark night, you might think that I was flailing at an attempt to write a particularly poor piece of Mills and Boon-like wine fiction. If I told you that it was one half of the story behind Vin Cognito, you might still think I was making it up. …

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Liberty Wines' 20th anniversary Italians (Tasting articles)

Aug 24, 2017 09:00 am | Jancis Robinson

One of the British Isles' most distinctive independent wine importers celebrated their twentieth anniversary recently with a great big celebratory tasting in London. I say British Isles rather than Britain because Liberty Wines have long had a significant presence in Ireland as well as in the UK – not least because the founder David Gleave first…

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Hatzidakis experiments on Santorini (Free for all)

Aug 24, 2017 09:00 am | Julia Harding MW

24 August 2017 We're republishing this article from 2009, in our Throwback Thursday series, as a tribute to the hugely talented Haridimos Hatzidakis who so tragically took his own life recently. He had been troubled for some time, and leaves a massive void in the fortunes of Greek wine (which, coincidentally, has long been championed by the subject…

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​Diary of a dream - part 13 (Inside information)

Aug 23, 2017 09:00 am | Guest contributor

Having a vision for a wine and spending more time with the vines are the lessons learned by neophyte vigneron Chris Boiling during his latest trip to his vineyard in Slovenia… ‘Doesn’t it look beautiful?’ I said as my wife and I stepped onto the terrace again, surveying the vineyard after three months’ absence. ‘It’s a mess,’ she replied. ‘What…

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Northern Greece part 1 – Amyndeo (Tasting articles)

Aug 23, 2017 09:00 am | Julia Harding MW

Western Macedonia has the highest level of unemployment anywhere in the EU. In 2016 it was 31.3% according to Eurostat. However, as Alpha Estate's Angelos Iatrides points out, the regional GDP is high because Western Macedonia is home to six of Greece's power stations, which reduces the level of EU funding available to local businesses. Power…

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Steve Daniel - the cherry picker's latest (Tasting articles)

Aug 22, 2017 09:00 am | Jancis Robinson

At the end of the last century the most innovative wine selection by far available to British wine drinkers was that on offer at branches of Oddbins, a quirky chain of slightly down at heel wine shops staffed by truly passionate (for once, the p-word is justified) wine lovers. Then, Oddbins was to wine what Waterstones was to books. Two men played…

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AWIWA shortlists announced (Free for all)

Aug 22, 2017 09:00 am | Jancis Robinson

With Saturday's deadline for our summer quiz to win a pair of tickets to the major celebratory Australian wine tasting in London on 26 September fast approaching, the finalists of the 2017 Australian Women in Wine Awards have just been announced.Winemaker of the Year – sponsored by WineArk Jo Marsh and Alex Phillips, Billy Button WinesShavaughn…

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​Research reveals how hot bulk wine gets (Free for all)

Aug 22, 2017 09:00 am | Guest contributor

Washington resident Gary Werner, who worked in wine publishing in the UK originally, reports on a worrying report. Wine professionals and avid amateurs alike understand that temperature control is crucial to quality. Excessive heat can ruin a refreshing Riesling or compromise a captivating Cabernet. As a result, wine production facilities are…

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More on Diam (Inside information)

Aug 21, 2017 09:00 am | Jancis Robinson

If like me you are a bit geeky in your love of wine, you might like to know a bit more about my visit to the producers of Diam technical corks described in Corks fight back published last Saturday (to which I have just added a coda). The Diam operation is a subsidiary of the company now known as Oeneo, which is 63% owned by the family who control…

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Viña Ardanza Reserva: new release, and older vintages (Tasting articles)

Aug 21, 2017 09:00 am | Richard Hemming MW

Twenty quid doesn't usually go far in the world of fine wine, but one of the world's finest riojas can be bought for exactly that price. Viña Ardanza Reserva from La Rioja Alta is no secret, and its reputation preceeds it, yet its price remains entirely affordable – especially compared with equivalent-scoring reds from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany,…

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Corks fight back (Free for all)

Aug 19, 2017 01:00 am | Jancis Robinson

21 August 2017 See an interesting addition at the bottom of this article. See also More on Diam published today. 19 August 2017 A shorter version of this article is published by the Financial Times.  In the first decade of this century, many were predicting the demise of the cork industry, centred on Portugal, so popular were alternative wine…

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Peer reviewed in Paris (Nick on restaurants)

Aug 19, 2017 01:00 am | Nick Lander

A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Assiduous readers of this column may recall that for the best part of the past 15 years I have been a great fan of the cooking of chef Antonin Bonnet. I first came across Bonnet when he was head chef of The Greenhouse in London’s Mayfair and then I followed him on his return to his…

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